
Kaole ruins
Five kilometres down the coast: two mosques and about thirty tombs from the 13th to 16th centuries, and a small museum with the Chinese ceramics dug up among them.
“Lay down your heart.”
A Swahili coast town 75 km north of Dar es Salaam. For a century the end of the caravan road from the Great Lakes — and since 2013, the site of a deep-water port that has yet to be built.

The name
Thousands of porters walked into Bagamoyo every year from as far as Lake Tanganyika, with ivory across their shoulders. Others arrived in chains, bound for Zanzibar. The town’s name is read both ways, and historians still argue over which came first.
Take the load off your heart
The porters’ reading: months of walking were over, and the town of palms meant rest. A Nyamwezi marching song recorded in the 1890s says as much.
Give up all hope
The captives’ reading: the last ground of the mainland before the crossing. It is the one the town’s museums and UNESCO’s listing remember.
Three Bagamoyos
Kaole’s coral-stone mosques, the ivory caravans, the first capital of German East Africa and the bombardment of 1916.
Eight centuries, in order
What to see, where to eat and sleep, and how to get there from Dar es Salaam.
Plan a visit
A $10 billion harbour, announced in 2013. Every claim since, dated and sourced.
Open the fileTwelve centuries
What is there to see

Five kilometres down the coast: two mosques and about thirty tombs from the 13th to 16th centuries, and a small museum with the Chinese ceramics dug up among them.

Walk the old town in daylight. The door frames, cut with Arabic and Indian patterns, are the best of what the merchants left.

Said to be five hundred years old, at the edge of the ruins.

The colonial headquarters, from the years when Bagamoyo was the capital of German East Africa. Burton, Speke and Stanley all set out for the interior from this shore.

Founded in 1868 to shelter children freed from slavery. Livingstone’s body rested in its tower in 1874, waiting for the tide to Zanzibar.

Still a working port, of a kind: dhows loading on the sand and the fish market behind them.
The port not yet built
In 2013 Tanzania and China announced a deep-water port at Bagamoyo, priced at $10 billion. It has since been suspended, revived, reported sold, denied, and re-signed with new backers.
This site keeps a dated record of every claim: confirmed, announced, denied or unverified, each with its source.